Galapagos- Tagus Cove, Punta Espinosa

Last night we sailed to Tagus Cove overnight so that we could get up early for a hike since it gets warm pretty fast.  In the morning we saw a whale swimming by the ship.  We took the dinghy to shore where we saw blue footed booby, cormorants and pelicans.  Then we hiked up the hill to look into the caldera.

We snorkeled after the hike.  Here, we saw starfish, puffer fish, turtles, urchins and sea lions.

We had lunch and sailed to Fernandina Island to hike at Punta Espinosa.  Iguanas and crabs covered the beach- as usual.  We saw oyster catchers, more cormorants, red, black and white mangroves, a yellow warbler and more.

 

Galapagos- Mosquera Island, Dragon Hill

After an early breakfast we took a dinghy to Mosquera Island and hiked along the beach.  Naturally, we saw more crabs and iguanas.  This beach had a lot of sea lions and even a few pups.  Under rocks we found scorpions.  There was also the skeleton of a beaked whale further up the shore.

After the excursion on the beach, we snorkeled near Mosquera for a bit.  In the water, we found beautiful starfish, sea slugs, sergeant majors,  parrot fish, sea lions, rays and white tipped reef sharks.

Next, we had lunch and sailed to another spot on Santa Cruz.  As we arrived on shore at Dragon Hill, we spotted a Blue Heron nearby.  A pair of gigantic iguana wrestled for a bit in the path.  I think it’s amazing to imagine that maybe 700,000 years ago, all of this land I am standing on was hard, unforgiving rock.  Today, there is soil, plants and wildlife.

That evening, we sailed to Rabida.  On the way, we saw what was likely to be a bryde’s whale.

Galapagos- Guayaquil, Las Gretas

In December 2011, Jenn and I went to Galapagos.  We were trying to find the smallest yacht possible after reading about the regulations regarding tours on the islands.  There are two itineraries each travelling to several of the islands but neither of the itineraries go to all of them, so we signed up for both.  Jenn found a tour and booked us on the yacht Angelito.  It held 16 passengers.  Our tour began with itinerary B.

In order to ensure we didn’t miss the boat, we arrived a few days early.  We explored a little of Guayaquil and hiked through a nature park to Las Gretas, a water filled chasm between cliff faces.  We snorkeled a little here, the water was very clear but (surprisingly) a little chilly.  Some of the cacti we passed on the trail had become very woody and resembled pine trees.  The inner ‘wood’ is like corrugated cardboard.

We flew to Baltra airport and got picked up by the tour company and headed to the boat.  We headed to Las Bachas/Bachas beach on Santa Cruz.  We got our first glimpse into the harsh environment that is Galapagos.  The islands were formed by volcanoes as recently as 700,000 years ago.  Here we saw turtle nesting sites, sally lightfoot crabs and lots of iguana and birds.  Some of the iguana were aquatic iguana, but we didn’t see them in action yet (seeing aquatic iguana is one of the reasons I really wanted to go to galapagos)

Our cabin was as comfortable as could have been hoped.  We haven’t spent much time on ships, so the thresholds at every door took a while to get used to.  We had fairly narrow bunk beds, and I think our room was below the galley.  The food was fair- they made a lot of ‘american dishes’ to the best of their ability but the ingredients were often canned or otherwise preserved.  I think they would have done much better preparing local foods.  There were many nights where we asked if we could have what the crew was having for dinner (rice and beans).  Not because what they made for us was terrible, rather because they were good at making rice and beans.

Later in the evening, we sat at the back of the ship watching the ocean.  The lights penetrated the water and we watched outlines of sharks swim around below.   The conservationist was out there with us chatting and eventually she got a broom and swished the water behind the ship.  The churned water sparkled and glowed, showing the bio luminescence in the ocean.

JnR’s trip to New Zealand (week four and five)

12/21

In Rotorua, we visited Te Puia and the Moari Cultural center.  It was very interesting to learn about the Moari people and the treaty they signed with the British Crown.

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In the afternoon we spent a few hours at the luge.  They had ski lifts to take you to the top of the hill which is the start of the course.  Then you hop in one of the luge cars and race down the hill, steering your car down the path.  It was a blast!  Those cars were fast!

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The next day, we went Zorbing.  You climb into a giant, inflatable hamster ball and they push you down a hill.

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After Zorbing we went to a nursery and bought several packets of seeds, thinking we would love to grow some of the plants we’ve seen back home.  (years later the seeds are sitting in a drawer)  We drove to Whakatane and did some beach combing before calling it a day.

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The next day, we took a tour to White Island, the volcano.  The crater is filled with sea water but is very very acidic from proximity to the volcano.  The island is so acidic that wash from the beach produces precipitate in the ocean water.  I thought that was cool to see.

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After we got back, we drove to Coromandel where we spent Christmas.  We had booked a hostel in town but it was very packed with a family.  When we arrived, they had filled the entire refrigerator with their groceries and had claimed every bed in the house.  It was a bit frustrating.  We were worried that we wouldn’t be able to get another place on such short notice (especially since everything was closing).  So we rushed back to the visitor’s information building and inquired there for a place.  They gave a few suggestions that didn’t pan out but the last was a farm not too far away.  We drove out to the farm to inquire about a room and what we got was spectacular.  This couple had built a small house to live in while they built their ‘real’ house.  After completion, they rented the small one.  It was perfect, and the couple was super nice.

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After settling in, we went to Waiau Falls and a Kauri Grove.

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We borrowed a shovel from the farm and spent Christmas at the hot water beach.  If you dug down into the sand, super hot water would bubble up.  After we had our fill of the beach we went to Cathedral cove and hiked around a little bit.

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We spent the next several days in Auckland before our flight back to the states.  Auckland was the largest city we visited, and it felt similar to Melbourne.  We were sad to have to leave, it was quite a journey.310 cor313 auc

JnR’s trip to New Zealand (week three)

12/12

There was a whale watching tour from a plane (they even let you fly the plane!).  I had always wanted to fly a plane, so this sounded pretty awesome to me.132 ka131 ka

From the air, we spotted a sperm whale and followed it around a bit.

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When we were planning the trip to New Zealand, the travel agent we used told us to skip Kaikoura because it is too touristy.  However, early in our trip we were talking to others in our hostel and they said that the dolphin swim was a necessity.  So when we came through Kaikoura we signed up to swim with dolphins.  The dolphin swim here is in the open water.  That’s important to note because the dolphins are not baited, in a cage, trained- they are wild dolphins.  In the morning before heading out on the boat they have you watch a video and do some minor training with us.  Dolphins are intelligent, curious animals.  To attract the dolphins to us in the water, we were told we have to make noise in the water and/or splash about doing strange actions.  The dolphins will come closer to investigate.  If a dolphin locks eyes with you, they are challenging you to a swimming contest.  They will swim in a circle around you and you must attempt to do the same while maintaining eye contact.  If you When you break eye contact, the dolphin will swim off.

The weather didn’t cooperate and after the training the excursion was cancelled.  So we went on a swim with seals instead.  I wasn’t prepared for the water temperature and after just a few minutes swimming around, my wedding ring fell off and sank to the bottom of the Kaikoura trench.  I was pretty upset about that for a while.145 ka

The next day we got to do the dolphin swim.

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We dropped into the water three or four times and swam with several pods of dolphins.  After the swim, the ship made its way back to Kaikoura.  On the way, we saw more dolphins and even a pod of Orcas.161 kja

When we got back we headed on toward Picton, stopping at Ohau waterfall.

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We took the ferry to Wellington and saw a few sites there before trying to find more LOTR filming locations.

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Ohakune Ithilien and Mordor

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Rangitikiei River Gorge River Anduin

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Putangirua Pinnacles the Dimholt Road

Here I tried walking up to the base of the pinnacles for a photo.  The ground was covered with the gravel and shells that make up these formations.  It was quite unstable and I took a spill on the way down.  The rocks were very sharp!  It was a painful drop.  I think I sat there for ten minutes to compose myself.

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Harcourt Park Isengard Gardens

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Ruapehu, Mead’s Wall Mordor and the Emyn Muil

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We also stopped by Huka Falls in the rain and Taupo.  Pulling into the parking lot in the car, you could feel the earth vibrate from the rushing water that is Huka Falls.  It was incredible to feel it, to hear it- that river was moving!

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Craters of the Moon

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The following day we drove to Rotorua and attended a Hangi Feast.  The men paddled down this river to the stage area.  We all crowded around the river to get a few pictures.  Some of the tourists here were very pushy and one lady kept pushing against me.  She nearly pushed me into the river, so I tried to give her more room.  She took it with a shove and fell off balance into the river.

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JnR’s trip to new Zealand (week two)

12/6

On the way to Milford Sound we passed by some beautiful scenery and stopped at The Chasm and passed through Homer’s Tunnel.  The Chasm is a wonderful testament to the power of water, watching the flow vanish into darkness as it cuts its way out to the sound.

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On the other side, we found our ship, the ‘Wanderer’, parked the car and got aboard.

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We set off on our overnight trip into the sound.  We were extremely fortunate, it was dry the day we arrived and it rained overnight.  The sound was beautiful and lush and green on the way out.  We even saw penguins on the shore!  The way back was misty with waterfalls everywhere.  The Wanderer stopped at the deep underwater observatory.  The biosphere near this station is unique in that while it is only 10m deep, there is life here normally only found at 500m depth.  This is because the freshwater draining into the sound floats on the surface above the salt water and reflects a lot of light that would normally penetrate deep into the sea.  Here we saw black coral (it’s white when it’s alive).

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Next we headed off for Te Anau.  The storm overnight brought some trees down on the only road leading out of the sound.  When we came upon the stopped traffic, I got out and spent awhile moving trees off the road with everyone else.  Trees are heavy!  After we cleared the road, we headed into town to the glowworm caves.  Gliding across the water on a little boat in the dark watching the glowing specks on the ceiling was a fascinating experience.  We came out of the cave and continued on to Invercargill where we stayed the night.

The next morning we headed to the Catlins and got a flat tire on the way.  Probably from the debris on the road after the storm.  We stopped briefly at Curio bay to see the petrified forest on our way to Cathedral caves.  You can only walk into Cathedral caves at low tide and our timing was off!  We tried to hike around to see what we could but we couldn’t get far.  So we went to the beautiful Purakaunui Falls then Nugget Point before going on to Dunedin where we stayed at Hogwartz.

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After breakfast we did the Cadbury tour then went to the Otago Peninsula.  There we saw Royal albatrosses.  It’s tough to describe the scale of the albatross.  At the albatross observatory they had a wingspan model to give you an idea.

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There was a farm with covered trenches that mazed across the property.  They were observation tunnels where you could walk and view penguins up close.  The penguins weren’t afraid because they could only see your eyes through the observation slits.  What an amazing experience!  We were unbelievably close to the penguins.  Better yet, when we asked for a suggestion for a place to stay the night, they said we could stay right there at the farm!  Everyone has a B&B in New Zealand!

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The following day we drove by the world’s steepest street then Larnach castle before visiting the moeraki boulders.  Then we went to Fleur’s Place for dinner.  That night we stayed at Olive Grove.

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In the morning, we took to the scenic highway toward Mt. Sunday.  Earlier in the week, we picked up a Lord of the Rings filming location book and picked some sites near our route to stop and visit.  We stopped at whitestone cheese in Oamaru then headed back to Christchurch to stay the night.  Before heading to the hostel we visited the Willowbank wildlife reserve where we saw Kiwi and Tuatara.

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We stayed at a slightly older hostel and when Jenn took a shower, the steam swelled the door shut and she got locked in.  She pounded on the door for help, ‘Get my husband!’  Another guest answered, ‘what room?’  ‘He’s in Room F!’  This hostel had no room F- they were all numbered.  I think we were in room 3.  We had been in so many different places over the past two weeks it was pretty tough to remember things like that, especially in a laid back environment like the hostels.  In her panic, I think she turned the key and locked herself in, in addition to the door getting stuck.  Eventually I figured it out and freed my maiden in distress!

We had planned to take a hot air balloon ride but it was cancelled, so we visited the waipara wine valley to drown our sorrows before continuing on to Kaikoura.

JnR’s trip to New Zealand (week one)

11/29

We flew to New Zealand and made our way to Christchurch.  We walked around a bit before heading back to our room and getting some much-needed rest.

The following day we discovered meat pies at the Copenhagen bakery.  Over the next several days I tried to get pies at least twice a day.  After breakfast we visited the Antarctic Center.  They had blue fairy penguins in an enclosure and we watched them swim around for a while.  Then we rode in a Hagglund around a course they built to show off the tank’s capabilities.  After the Antarctic Center we walked around Christchurch some more taking in sights, such as the dandelion fountain by the river.

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The next day we took the TranzAlpine railroad across the continent to Greymouth where we rented a car.  This is when the real NZ adventure began.  I was pretty anxious about driving on the left side of the road, and over the course of our trip there was a time or two where I pulled into the wrong side of the road by habit.  Thankfully, there was VERY little traffic on the road and both times I made that error there was no one around to witness it.  Except Jenn, of course.  After we got the car, we drove to Punakaiki to see the pancake rocks, then on to Hokitika for sunset and our hostel.

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We did some shopping in Hokitika and bought some jade.  We had quite a time trying to buy a Styrofoam cooler to store our groceries in the car.  In Australia, the major cooler manufacturer was eskimo, and they called their coolers ‘eskies’.  On our tour of the red center we used them a lot so we picked up their terminology.  They did not call them eskies in NZ, and it took a while to explain just what it was we were looking for.  We asked at the grocery store, the gas station, even at a jewelry store.  Eventually the ladies at the jewelry shop told us we were trying to buy a ‘chilly-bin’ and sent us back to the grocery store to buy one.  As we were in line to check out, we asked for some ice.  They didn’t understand what we wanted.  Frozen water, I say.  ‘Ohhhhh, OICE!’ the checker says.  ‘Like Oice Oice baby!’, he says.  ‘Say Oice again!’ he requests.  It was pretty funny.  We got our groceries in our chilly bin with our oice and we were on our way.  From Hokitika, we went to Fox Glacier where we did the terminal face walk at the glacier.

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We signed up for the heli-hike atop Fox Glacier but it took a few days for the weather to clear so we kinda just hung out at Lake Matheson playing cards.  NZ had very interesting birds.  The black one is a Pukeko and the green one is an alpine parrot or Kea.  When we visited Gillespie beach we met our first of many sheep.

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The next day was clear enough for our helicopter to land on the glacier for our hike.  It was awesome!  Our guide was long-legged so Jenn had trouble trying to cross the chasms he could casually step across.  The air was crisp, the ice was blue, and they told us the dirt was from Australia- carried over by clouds.

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We loaded up the car and headed out for Wanaka.  Unfortunately, we discovered a little too late that NZ isn’t like the states in regard to gas stations.  They are few and far between and we ran out of gas near Haast and decided to try to sleep on the beach.  We stepped put of the car and were swarmed by mosquitoes.  We lept back in the car and killed the blood suckers for an hour.  It also turns out that the beach in Haast was crazy cold.  We put on ALL of our clothes and tried to sleep in the car.  It didn’t work out so well.  Morning arrived very slowly.  We got some gas and continued on to Wanaka.  After arriving at the Purple Cow, we slept a bit before getting sunburned on a jet boat and visiting puzzling world.

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Then we drove to Milford Sound.

JnR’s trip to Australia (week five)

11/19

Lady Elliot Island is a natural island formed by coral and bird droppings.  It really is.  The lodgings are glorified tents.  The reason you want to stay a week here is that the island is in the Great Barrier reef and you simply walk off the island into reef and amazing coral vistas.  We spent days snorkeling here.

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We only had a disposable underwater film camera so our pictures are not as good as we would have liked and we missed a lot of great shots.  We saw so many different kinds of seafaring creatures: sharks, turtles, anemone, cuttlefish, manta ray, and a huge maori wrasse (biggest damn fish I have ever seen).

While we were there, the Green sea turtles were nesting, so we could go out at night with the nature guide and watch the turtles dig a pit and lay eggs before heading back to sea.

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We left Lady Elliot and headed to Sydney to finish out the Australia leg of our trip.  Our second day in Sydney we went to the Opera house for Rachmaninoff after a visit to the botanic gardens.

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The following day we saw the aquarium and wildlife world.  We got a lot more pictures at the aquarium but it feels like cheating after seeing some of these animals in the wild.

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The Sydney Harbor bridge was very cool.  We climbed the pylon before taking the Parramatta ferry.  Of course, the most interesting pictures you can take from the bridge are the opera house.

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We took the train to Katoomba and the Blue Mountains.  There we saw echo point, three sisters and the leura cascades.

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The next day we flew to New Zealand.

JnR’s trip to Australia (week four)

11/13

We stayed in a rambunctious hostel (I think it was called Calypso) in Cairns but they had a travel guy there that would have made the place a bargain at twice the price.  He helped us book an overnight on the Great Barrier Reef (our travel agent in the states said there was no way we could afford to do that) and he even refunded our hostel for the days we would be on the overnight.  Anyway, kudos to Calypso, they were great.

Our first full day in Cairns we went to Tjapukai, an aboriginal cultural park.  We watched an aboriginal dance with music by didgeridoo.  We were also taught how to throw boomerangs and spears.  It was pretty awesome.

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We took the Skyrail to Kuranda.  The Skyrail cable car was outstanding and we were fortunate in that it had rained the day before so waterfalls were flowing and the greenery was beautiful.  In Kuranda, we went to the butterfly sanctuary.

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The next day we went out with Billy Tea Bush Safari.  We must have done their Daintree rain forest 1 day tour.  We went out in their truck through the rain forest to have a snack, then on to the boat trip down the river.  We saw crocodiles, snakes and mangrove trees from the boat.  At the animal preserve we fed kangaroos, and at Cape Tribulation we saw a box jellyfish.

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The travel guy at Calypso said we had to do Uncle Brian’s waterfall tour, so that’s what we did the day after Daintree.  The waterfall tour was incredible!  The sights were amazing and the natural water slides were great.  This tour was easily the most fun you can have on a bus.  We even saw two platypus! (yes, I had to look it up)

  1. Scientists generally use “platypuses” or simply “platypus“. Colloquially, the term “platypi” is also used for the plural, although this is technically incorrect and a form of pseudo-Latin; the correct Greek plural would be “platypodes”.
  2. Platypus – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platypus

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Then on to the Coral Sea Dreaming for our live-aboard for the next two days.  The live-aboard was less expensive than our hostel stay in Cairns.  Of course, we had to sleep on the dining room table but it was awesome.  Plus, we went to snorkel, not to sleep on tables!  We tried scuba here and it was ok.  Jenn didn’t care for it at all and used up most of her air in just a few minutes underwater.

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The day after we got back from the live-aboard we flew to Lady Elliot Island.

JnR’s trip to Australia (week three)

11/6

We took the ferry back to Adelaide and the next morning we boarded the short bus for our 6 day trip through the red center.  The tour hiked through Alligator gorge and we saw aboriginal cave paintings.  We ended the day at Pachilna where we ate kangaroo, emu and camel for dinner.

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Our tour went through another gorge where we saw yellow footed rock wallaby, emu and a shingleback lizard whom we affectionately refer to as a turd lizard.  Their tail resembles their head and as it was described to us, a predator might bite the shingleback’s ‘fake’ head and get a mouthful of something not delicious.  Later in the day when it was much warmer, we climbed Mt. Ohlssen-Bagge.

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The following day we drove to Lake Hart salt flats.  It was the first time I’d ever seen salt flats and it was pretty neat.  It was also very flat.  After that short stop we continued our trek to Coober Pedy where they mine opal.  They had these crazy vacuum vehicles made of old pickup trucks.  They use these vacuums to suck the dirt up from inside the mines.  It was very hot there, so hot that the houses are built underground.  We fossacked dirt piles for a while trying to find opal but gave up and bought one.  The breakaways are near here, and a lot of movies like Mad max and Pitch Black were filmed in this region for the desolate landscape.  That evening in the dining hall where we stayed, we saw a giant spider and learned that everything in Australia can kill you.  You should listen to the ‘Come to Australia‘ song.

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11/9

We made it to Uluru.  It was quite hot.  That night we camped under the stars.139 rc

The next day we had a chance to walk around Uluru (or climb it).  We read that it is disrespectful to the Aboriginal people to climb it, so we admired it from the ground.  After a few hours at Uluru, we hiked at Kata Tjuta.  We camped in cabins that night and saw more of Australia’s poisonous spiders.  I’m pretty sure that’s a redback.

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After packing up camp, we head to King’s Canyon where we hiked for a few hours.  It was very hot once again.

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Leaving King’s canyon we drove the rest of the way to Alice Springs.  In Alice Springs we bought a painting by an Aboriginal artist then took a flight to Cairns.