Cerfs Volants: Berck-sur-Mer Kite Festival

We went to Berck-sur-Mer, France this year for the kite festival. The weather was a little cloudy and only windy near the sea (English Channel). It seemed it wasn’t windy enough for the largest kites, nevertheless it was a pretty incredible sight. When we first arrived (Friday night; the festival started on Saturday) the beach was devoid of kites.

But the next day, there were tons of kites, in spite of the seemingly kite unfriendly weather. We only stayed through the weekend (and one day would have been enough to enjoy the kites) but it was a relaxing weekend. There is a nice path along the beach that paths by a seal colony as well. What really astonished me was how the beach went on forever. It’s always a joy to visit France, though the train ride out here from Basel was something like 7 hours. We stayed in a nice airbnb a few blocks from the sea. I highly recommend seeing the festival if you get the chance!

Nice, Monaco and Menton, Oh My!

We went to Nice for the first day of Carnival, Menton for the Citrus festival and Monaco, because it’s a whole other country! (Monaco is quite small)

We started out in Monte Carlo, Monaco. Walnut and I walked around town up to the Prince’s Palace to see the changing of the guard. It also happens to be a great viewpoint over Monaco.

After Jenn’s conference wrapped up, we headed to our Airbnb in Menton, France. We could see some of the structures for the Citrus Festival already up in Menton, but we wouldn’t really see the festival until later in the weekend.

The first event we attended was the flower parade in Nice on the first day of Carnival. There were a lot of people on stilts, crazy costumes, streamers and even a few balloons!

That evening we went through the ‘garden of lights’. It was pretty neat. I didn’t know what to expect and we had been to the Rabechilbi festival last year, so my expectations were not super high. I was pleasantly surprised! This years theme was ‘Des Mondes Fantastiques’.

Our Airbnb was only a block away from Creperie Fleur de Sel. We went there several times over the few days we had in town.

The next day was the Golden Fruit Parade. We had seats in bleachers for both parades we attended. It was great! Now I want seats for every parade!

There were huge, mechanical floats in the parade. The first was a giant grasshopper. At the rear of the machine, they had a pair of women playing electric violins. It was fantastic! The had a huge sound system in the guts of the grasshopper blasting out modern tunes but being played by these two on violin.

Many of the floats going by had people throwing out huge clods of confetti. They do this in Switzerland, too. However, in Switzerland it is taboo to ‘reuse’ the confetti- there is no picking up already thrown confetti. Not in France! All confetti is in play here.

Later in the parade there was a huge mechanical dragon. Even the drivers wore costumes to match the theme of their floats. There were a lot of really great costumes.

We also did a driving tour of the region. It gave us a bit more of an overview of the area. Lots of money in the Cote d’Azur! The water off the coast is beautiful. The weather was nice, and it seemed the sun was always shining. With the nearby mountains, I’d bet there is nice hiking not far off. From the lookout point near the end of our trip, you could see three countries- Monaco just below, France a stone’s throw away and Italy in the distance.

It was really beautiful and it’s hard to beat the food in France. We had great weather but it wasn’t warm. It’d be nice to go back when it’s warm and jump in that beautiful blue water.

Magnificent Malta!

Over Christmas this year we went to Malta. Malta is a small island country in the Mediterranean Sea not far from Italy. We started out on Gozo, the 2nd largest island in the Republic of Malta. We landed really late as our flight was significantly delayed, but we managed to catch a taxi to our hotel (on Malta) for our first night. We thought we’d get in too late for the ferry to Gozo- we just didn’t expect it to be quite so late.

At the ferry terminal in Gozo we met the agent from whom we rented a car for our week on that island. It turns out, they drive on the left in Malta- and worse – we could only get a manual transmission car. This meant the shifter was on my left side as I drove around town. I did fair, even though I hadn’t driven a manual in 25 years (and when I had, it was on the right!) That evening, we walked into town to find a restaurant for dinner. We didn’t find much open so we settled for a little pizza place in Gozo across from this church.

The following day we did some hiking around the island. Gozo is very dry and sunny. Being December it was cool, but we got pretty warm hiking up the massive hills from the coast. After out hike we took a drive to visit a recently completed church. They had a beautiful mosaic piece that wrapped around the outer patio.

We also visited the Ggantija Temples. These temples are the oldest freestanding manmade religious structures in the world- older than the pyramids. The monoloithic stones used to build the temples were enormous and were likely moved around on spherical carved stones. The visitor center for Ggantija was minimal but the temples on Malta had much more information about how they were built and why. Near Ggantija was the windmill museum, which was far more interesting than I’d have guessed. The man that maintained this windmill was instrumental in maintaining all the windmills on the island after WWII as most had not been cared for. With food shortages and lack of power due to severe bombings, the windmills became necessary for survival.

After our week in Gozo we dropped off the car and took the ferry back to Malta. We visited Valetta and the Order of St. John or the Knights Hospitaller. There are a lot of Game of Thrones filming sites in Malta, and we saw several in Valetta.

We also went to Popeye’s village. This funny little movie set has been rebuilt over and over again (due to loss by fire) but is a strangely large draw for tourists. It really is a beautiful little place. After that, we went to Mdina where we rode the horse drawn carriage through town. Walnut went ape over the horses and was trying hard to climb up front to be closer to the horse.

The blue grotto had clear blue water in spite of the wind and waves. It’s hard to tell in our photos, but the walls were shades of pinks, greens and blues. If only the water had been tranquil! We also visited the monolithic temples on Malta, which were not quite as old as those on Gozo. In Malta however, they were better preserved and were under cover to protect from rain and weather.

Finally, we visited St. John’s co-cathedral. It was very ornate, with paintings and sculptures all over. The floor was wall to wall tombs of knights of the order. For a short time, Caravaggio was a Knight Hospitaller. He painted St. Jerome Writing and The Beheading of St. John the Baptist for the order.

We had a great time in Malta and we’d love to go back someday. It was nice to hike around and lounge on the rocks on the coast. The sea was beautiful and everyone was very friendly (and spoke English!). Gozo was a more pleasant stay than Malta, probably because there were fewer tourists out and it felt like we were virtually alone when driving or hiking.

Incredible Istanbul!

This past weekend Jenn and I went to Istanbul, Turkey.  She had a work conference and I flew over for just weekend.  We had a friend watch Walnut for those few days.  It’s hard to leave him behind, but I wasn’t sure if Walnut would be well received in Turkey and I was pretty sure he’d be stuck in the hotel all day.

We hired a guide for the day on Saturday to show us some of the major sites and give us some history about them.  We started by heading to the Old Bazaar so Jenn could pick up a scarf to wear for our many mosque visits.  A short walk further and we were at the Blue Mosque.  Unfortunately for us, we could not see much as the mosque is undergoing restoration.  After the Blue Mosque, we walked through the area that was the Hippodrome of Constantinople where there are obelisks from an ancient era.

Next we went to the Basilica Cistern.  The cistern was really interesting.  Of course, it’s underground so it’s very dark and a bit spooky with the Hen’s eye column and Medusa heads.  This cistern is huge, and could hold 2.8 million cu ft of water.

Afterwards, we went to Hagia Sophia. It was huge!  But it, too was undergoing renovations.  The Hagia Sophia has been both a mosque and a cathedral in it’s history but was converted to a museum in 1935.  We also visited Topkapi Palace. After which we went to the Grand Bazaar.

Sunday, we visited the Suleymaniye Mosque.  We arrived during prayer so we sat at a cafe terrace across the street for awhile.  This mosque was most recently restored in 1956 and was really beautiful.  We also walked through several graveyards (which are near many of the mosques).

Before catching our flight back Monday we saw the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque.

Though we were only in Istanbul for a few days, we saw a lot of amazing, ancient architecture and tasted many different incredible foods.  Istanbul was great!

Weekend trip to Lauterbrunnen

This past weekend we went to Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland.  It was great!  The weather forecast was rain, so we were concerned we wouldn’t get to do the hiking we wanted but we were lucky and it rained very, very little.

We took the train from Basel to Lauterbrunnen and only had to change trains once.  It took about 2 1/2 hours to get there.  Once there, we climbed up the hill through town following the directions from our rented apartment (booking.com this time)  It was a hilly trek and we had to cross the cog train tracks but we found it, dropped off our stuff and headed back to town for some lunch, groceries, and a stop at the tourist information booth.

We hiked the Panoramaweg from our apartment (I’m guessing it was 1.5-2 miles) that evening while it was still nice out (expecting rain).  It was a lovely trail through the valley and along the Weisse Lutschine river.  The stony cliffs, green trees and grass, white river, and blue sky were quite a sight.  There is just something exhilarating about hiking in Switzerland.

Saturday, we hiked most of the Panoramaweg again on the way to Trummelbachfalle, picking up the Wasserweg trail which led to the  falls.  Trummelbachfalle cuts it’s way through the mountain, and they’ve dug caves into the mountain so you can see the falls at different elevations.  It’s amazing to see the shapes and paths the water has cut into the stone.  It’s really impressive and definitely worth a visit.  Afterward, we had lunch there at Trummelbach before hiking back to the apartment.  All told, we did about 7 miles and 700 feet on that hike .  Walnut loves hiking in Switzerland because he has a thing for large animals like horses and cows.  At one point, a half dozen cows walked over to the little ribbon of a fence to check out Walnut.  The animals are all vying to get a sniff of one another and Walnut sneezes.  The nearest cow, which had to be at least 700 pounds, jumped in the air in surprise.  He did most of the hike under his own power, maybe 6 miles before he needed a ride in the backpack.  Sadly, the pack wasn’t very cool so it was only rest for his legs at first.  Later, I filled a poo bag with near-freezing water from the Lutschine and plopped that into the bag with him.

We rested a bit back at the apartment and hit the trail again after dinner.  This time, we walked the opposite direction and hiked the Alpweg, which climbed up an opposing butte.  This trail was more forested than our previous hike.  This time we got a little rain but it was short lived.  This trail crossed a mountain bike trail several times and we glanced down those paths- they are quite steep!  From the elevation we climbed to, we had a birds eye view over Lauterbrunnen- beautiful green grasses interrupted here and there by the brown swiss houses or chalets.  Further down the way, we found a newly built reservoir just before the trail led us back into town.  This trail was about 5.5 miles and 800 feet.

We loved it.  It was great hiking with some elevation.  Beautiful scenery and fortunately great weather.  I look forward to going back to Lauterbrunnen, though I’m sure we will visit the surrounding towns on the next trip to that region.

Happy to be home again!

Christmas 2017 – Cologne and Budapest

For Christmas we visited Cologne and Budapest.  We like visiting the Christmas markets found all over Europe.

In Cologne we saw 4 different markets, including one at the base of the Cathedral.  All were lit and decorated a bit differently.  Our favorite was the brownie forest.  (brownies are said to aid in tasks around the house) There was a lot of street food available- Jenn especially enjoyed Glühwein.  I liked the Rösti.  The Cathedral was really impressive; we probably should have made more time to explore inside.  They were doing work on it so there is scaffolding around it in places, even attached to the side very high up.  Overall, we enjoyed our few days in Cologne.

The bulk of our trip was spent in Budapest, Hungary.  We both really loved Budapest.  The city has an old world feel, reminiscent of Prague or Vienna.  The architecture is beautiful, while still showing the scars of it’s past (unlike the aforementioned cities).  In general, Budapest was very affordable.  I went to my first Michelin star restaurant here (Costes) on this trip and it was fabulous!  A bit expensive, but it was quite an experience.

We took the hop-on hop-off bus, as we frequently do, to help get an overview of the city and a little bit of history.  The bus was ok, the audio was low content and the wait for the bus to arrive was rather long.  We took the BigBus tour, and I would try the other company if we were to go back.  We really enjoyed the chamber music concert we attended.

We like to take food tours, and Jenn found a great one in Budapest.  We got lucky and were the only people on the food tour the morning we’d booked.  The guide, Nora, gave us more history about Budapest, going back to the Magyar.  And of course, we had a lot of really good food on the tour.  Jenn and I both found the food in Budapest to be quite good (not just on the tour or at Costes!)

On our last full day we took the Hammer and Sickle tour .  The tour was very informative, going into what daily life was like 20, 30, 40 years ago in Budapest.  It’s interesting to take tours like this because the history classes in my education glossed over these parts of history, and when it was mentioned, it was always in a negative light.

Our trip was fantastic, and I’d really like to go back.  Though we stayed several days, there was a lot more we could do in Budapest (so many restaurants we missed!)  The people were friendly and it seemed the majority spoke english so it was very easy to get around.  They have good public transit, and it was generally inexpensive.

The Festival of Lights in Lyon, France

We just went to the Festival of Lights in Lyon.  It was beautiful!  Different groups set up light displays around town for the public.  It is a free event that they hold annually.  Some of the displays were just incredible.

Though we were only there for the weekend, I thought Lyon was a lovely city.  Of course, it was very crowded and security was a (necessary?) nuisance.  It was a little cool, but no worse than one ought to expect when wandering around outside at night in December.  The city has two rivers, the Rhone and Saone that flow through it, so there are quite a few bridges crossing them.  It’s the third largest city in France.

Some of the exhibits were really spectacular.  Nearly all of them were animated or in motion in some way.  My favorite might be the flowers near the Ferris wheel, but the giants mantle clock was cool, too.  The lighted horses were interesting but difficult to photograph.

We stayed in an airbnb that had a fantastic location for the festival.  It was nicely outfitted but had a few small issues that I imagine the owner will address soon.  We ate a very nice dinner at Cafe 203 Friday night and had street food Saturday night.  Jenn enjoyed a bit of Vin Chaud- a hot spiced wine.  Walnut was with during the day, but for the festival in the evening, we took him back to the apartment because of the temperature and crowds.

It was a great visit, and I look forward to going back to Lyon.  I could see us going back for the Festival of Lights in a few years or maybe spending a few more days in Lyon in better weather.

What we did right:

  • Apartment was in a great location
  • Had sandwiches/street food for lunch and dinner Saturday (inexpensive and tasty)
  • Went to Cafe 203 for dinner- delicious food for 30€
  • brought warm clothing
  • The Festival of Lights was fabulous

What went wrong:

  • didn’t read the sign for public transit tickets- spent a few € we didn’t need to
  • didn’t have a plan for the added security and accidentally left the ‘secure’ area once, only to have to go through security to get back in
  • planned to use the metro but ‘security’ didn’t allow transfers within stations- got shunted outside only to find a 1/2 mile long line to the entrance to the next metro

A Weekend in Granada

Last weekend we went to Granada, Spain.  We’ve been looking forward to going back to Spain, if only for a short while.  The weather was warmer than Basel yet cooler than expected.

We planned to do a little bit of clothes shopping in Spain.  Fortunately for us, there were black friday sales, even here!  Both Jenn and I needed to get a few things, which turned into a few more things.

We arrived in the evening, so we were lazy and took a taxi to our rented apartment.  The apartment had a great view of the Alhambra and the host, Antonio was very helpful.  I would definitely stay here again.

Alhambra the evening we arrived, just outside the apartment

The next morning we had a guided tour of the Alhambra.  The Alhambra is an Islamic Palace that began as a small fortress in the 9th century (roman ruins on the site date further back).  The palace and gardens are beautiful.  There is still quite a bit of the original decoration including geometric designs and script, though it was taken by King Ferdinand and redecorated in places with Christian elements.  In many areas you can see the foundations of houses for those citizens allowed to live inside the walls.  There is even a functional aqueduct still bringing water to the palace.

We hiked around town a bit and did some shopping.  In little markets all over town and in the larger stores in the center.  We tried a Pionono (a small, sweet pastry) and Pastela (similar to a pasty or a large empanada).  Definitely try them, though I favor the Pastela.  We tried a vegetarian and a chicken Pastela- the vegetarian was better (both from Panaderia Maria).

We also visited the Cathedral of Granada and the San Jeronimo Monastery.  These massive renaissance style buildings were opened in the 1500s.

We’d planned to take hike in the mountains but buses didn’t run on the day we had free to do so.  Though it was a short trip, we all enjoyed Granada.

Walnut goes to England!

We took a two week trip to England in October with Walnut.  Since he can’t fly there, we had to plan a rather convoluted route.  A train to Paris then Calais.  A car on a train in the chunnel.  Another train to London.

Getting to Paris was easy.  The train from Basel only takes a few hours.  That night, the Louvre stayed open until 9:30 pm so we spent a few hours there.  I think we ended up wandering the same halls as last time.  We need to make a plan before we go back!  Of course, the Louvre is fantastic even if we saw mostly the same exhibits as before.  We did spend some time in the ancient Mesopotamia exhibit.  Very interesting artifacts and script.  We especially liked the signature rollers/beads.

The next day we caught a train to Calais where we met a taxi we’d hired from England.  When we meet with him, he asks if Walnut had a tapeworm vaccinations between 24 and 120 hours ago.  He did not… So, we had to run to a local vet for the shot and stay in Calais overnight.  An expensive mistake!  So we scratched off our plans in Dover and wandered around in Calais- where we found original Rodin, The Burghers of Calais.

Our taxi came the following day and shuttled us to Folkestone where we caught the train to London.  Once there, we took the tube to Notting Hill where we stayed for 5 days.  It was refreshing to travel once again where I can read signs!  The tube is easy to understand and we found ourselves using it whenever we had the chance.  Our apartment in London was in a great spot.  It was a pretty nice place except for the bed.  It was a mattress on the floor in a loft.  I had trouble sleeping the entire stay in London.  I won’t stay in a place that only offers a mattress on the floor again if I have the choice.

Thankfully, our delay in getting to England only impacted the one day, and we were able to make our reservation with the tour guide, Britt.  We spent the whole day Monday touring London with her.  We started out with Walnut and viewed Kensington Park, Hyde Park and went to see the guards at the Palace.  Nearby is the Armoury, where the guards that do the change set up and practice their tunes before the ceremony.  We listened to them play a couple songs before we headed off to see more monuments in parks.  This morning gave one the sense that London was nary a city at all!  The parks were enormous with towering trees and plentiful wildlife.  It was really nice to let Walnut off the leash and watch him run around.  Near lunchtime, we dropped Walnut off at the apartment (bushed from the walking) and we took a bus to Westminster Abbey.  From there, we continued walked around the financial district ending at the Tower of London.

The next morning we went back to the Tower for a tour.  The tour was great and the Tower is an interesting site, performing many different roles through history.  We walked from there to the Globe theater for a tour but missed by one minute and they would not relent.  It was the last tour of the day, so…. bummer.  That evening we saw the play ‘Mousetrap’.  It was pretty good, and it was nice to see theater in London.  Kinda makes me miss theater in Chicago.

The Churchill war rooms museum was a really neat attraction.  Very informative about both the war and the Prime Minister.  It really made you think ‘Where have people like this gone?’  We also took a walking tour with Jenn’s detour app.  It talked about MI5 and was written/narrated by an ex-employee.

Then we took a train to Bath.  We had a nice Airbnb, though it was a bit far from the center of town.  Exhausted from our itinerary in London, we slowed things down a lot here.  We took the bus tour through Bath and it gave us a nice overview of the sites and some insight into Bath’s history.

From here we did a morning Stonehenge tour.  It was really spectacular.  It was chilly and windy, but the sun was out and the sky was clear.  We also went to Avebury, and the villages of Lacocke and Castle Combe.  Avebury was another stone circle site, far larger than Stonehenge.  Unlike Stonehenge, at Avebury, you could get close to the stones.  Lacocke and Castle Combe were beautiful little villages.

We rented a car and drove to our next airbnb in the Cotswolds near Chipping Campden.  It was strange to have to drive on the left and there were fewer signs and reminders to do so than we saw while driving in New Zealand.  Thankfully, there was little traffic on our drive, though most of the roads were barely two lanes to begin with.  Our place was on a farm in the boonies.  We did a bit of hiking there before we drove to visit the nearby towns.  Bourton on the water was built to attract tourists, and we visited the model town here.  We also went to Broadway tower and did some hiking.

We drove across the country to turn the car in at Canterbury, where we stayed our last night in England.  The taxi picked us up from here to take us back to the train station in France.  A few trains and a night in Paris later, we were back in Basel.

A weekend in Prague

This past weekend the three of us met up with some friends in Prague.  It was great to see Val and Dave, and Prague was beautiful!

This trip, Jenn scheduled a car to pick us up. Though our timing with the car wasn’t perfect, we might start doing this on other trips especially when we arrive later in the evening like this trip.

We arrived in the evening and checked in.  Our apartment was just a few blocks from the Charles Bridge.  Sadly, the grocery store was already closed so we stopped at a convenience store to get some cereal, milk and diet pepsi.  It cost us $20 since we were in the heart of the tourism zone.  I really love the old world feel of Prague, the architecture reminded me of Lisbon.  Even the cobblestone streets and sidewalks were nearly identical to Lisbon.

Saturday, we crossed the Charles Bridge and saw the astronomical clock.  Though we passed it several times we never happened to be there at the hour when it does it’s show.  Near the clock was Our lady before Tyn and the Jan Hus monument.  We did some more walking and a few of the sites were closed so we stopped for ice cream on our way to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral.  That evening we met up with Val and Dave after their race at the beer garden in Letna Park.  On the way, we passed the Winged Lion memorial to the Czech airmen.

The next morning we visited Kampa garden before hiking up to Strahov Monastery.   On the way, we saw the John Lennon wall and a pair of animatronic statues of men pissing on Czech Republic.  After lunch at the monastery we saw Wallenstein Garden.  At one end of the garden is a huge Italian style grotto wall with an aviary.  There are faces and fake passages in the wall.  We could see part of the wall from Prague Castle the day before but didn’t know what it was until today.  We went back to the Jewish museum and walked through the cemetery and synagogue.  The synagogue was beautiful and very ornate.  At the Grand Cafe Orient, we had a few Czech specialties before visiting ‘the world’s only cubist lamp post.’

We got a ticket on Sunday for walking on the wrong part of the sidewalk.  The officer was kind enough to offer a reduced fine if we could pay in cash on the spot.  Very convenient!

On our final morning in Prague, we visited Wenceslas Square and Vysehrad Citadel.  After dealing with hordes of people in Prague for the weekend, the Citadel was a refreshing sight.  Not many people were here, and the grounds made you feel like you were out in the country.  Surrounded by old walls and buildings, with a giant cathedral looming in the background, the Citadel grounds were fantastic.  We didn’t have enough time at the Citadel (or Prague for that matter).

Prague is a beautiful town, steeped in old world charm.  Try to visit sights as early as possible.  We were there on the weekend, it’s probably better on weekdays.  We will definitely be back!